Yes, iHeartRadio has a ton of stations, but if the internet connection goes out, there's no way to get traffic and weather through the iHome. The one thing that's missing? An actual AM/FM radio. Most clock radios aren't known for their audio prowess, but the iHome pleasantly breaks the stereotype with strong, powerful sound. (For the latter, a premium account is required.) However, even if you tell Alexa to play music, you can still use the iHome's buttons to control playback. It's a lot more than I expected from a bedside speaker.įrom within the iHome app, you can play your own music, or stream from iHeartRadio and Spotify. The subtle inflections of Miles Davis' trumpet in "Bye Bye Blackbird" came through cleanly, while John Coltrane's glissandos up and down his sax were nearly as impressive I could have gone for a bit more treble, though.įrom then on, I was greatly pleased with what I heard from the iHome. Boosting the latter fixed the muddiness and made the vocals a lot clearer. Thankfully, there are basic but effective equalizer settings in the iHome app: one for bass, and one for treble. When I first played "Brandy," by Looking Glass, the song sounded a bit muddy. The speaker delivers plenty of bass, and it can get pretty loud without distorting the sound, too. Acoustically, I would say the iHome is on a par with the Echo Show. Music and Audio Quality: Surprisingly good It's something that's been a long time coming, and while it's welcome, it could still use some tweaking. The feature of the iHome that most drew my attention is that you can set an alarm using Alexa but then use the iHome's physical buttons to snooze or turn off the alarm. A third button controls play/pause for music, and the last button changes the lighting mode of the LED on the bottom of the speaker.Īround the back is the power plug and a 2.1-amp USB port for charging your smartphone or tablet. Two can be set to control audio, iHome smart plugs and the color on the bottom of the speaker. On the left side of the speaker are four more buttons: Bluetooth, Phone call/answer, Alexa mute, and Sleep this latter button lets you create a scene for when you want to shut your eyes you can tell the speaker to play music or adjust your lights for a set period of time before shutting everything off. In the middle is a circular Alexa button, surrounded by four music control buttons: two for volume (up and down), and two for advance/back. The top of the iAVS16 has a huge array of buttons. Regards.(Image credit: Mike Prospero/Tom's Guide) I hope it is of help to somebody that loves iHome as I do. So this is the link to a folder with all the needed info: I have a couple of pictures that I toke but I really don't know how to upload them to this site. Any one who has an unusable ID95, can try this mod to get it back to fully operational state. This work was made on so it has more than a year working. I used the EB juncture because it has a variable drop value from aprox 0.7 volt with low current up to 1.2 volts drop with 300 mA. Well, finally I build a "parallel regulator" based on a 78L05, wich takes the power in from a 6.5 VDC that I found internally in the ID95, and to get the needed 4.2 VDC to feed the MB95F378E, I just conected a NPN transistos in series with the 78L05 out terminal as a diode to produce a ~0.8 VDC drop from the 5 volts. (cont.) The circuit still worked and let it going at the 4.2 VDC for a whole day to verify that it wasn't just a lucky shoot. So I decided to go on and arrived to 4.2 VDC. I found out that at the maximum VCC that is rated for the IC, it wasn't the best value for the LCD to show as a brand new unit does. ![]() With the fault at view and rising the external power supply slowly, the LCD starts to show normal again. To do so, I used an external power supply and started with the 3.3 VDC that is the same VCC that provides the internal regulator. I thought that since the LCD starts to fade out when temperature rises above 25 ☌, and it is very common in most houses, it should be the LCD drivers circuit that isn't able to continually source the needed signal. From the datasheet of the IC that drives the LCD display (MB95F378E), I found that is is possible to supply it from 1.8 to 3.6 VCC. Since I love it because of its sound quality and features I was not going to give up with the task of fixing it. ![]() I have an iHome ID95 with the same defect.
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